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Let me begin by coming clean on two points. First, I was not born a moonraker. I was born in Plymouth in 1945 and my parents brought me to Salisbury in 1947 when my father became Bishop of Sherborne. Secondly, my Wiltshire lies south of Salisbury Plain and I have a lot to learn about the communities and countryside to our north.

Members of Parliament get to know their constituencies very intimately - but take us a mile over our boundary and we are lost souls. Elected councillors and those who work for local authorities suffer similar identity crises. However, for most people a parish, district or county boundary matters less than the personality of their community and the loyalty it engenders.


So, why am I so loyal to Wiltshire? What do I need to share with my new neighbours who have chosen to retire to our county; with the young people who have moved into this year's estate that was last year's green field? Which of our memories should we record as well as treasure?

At Salisbury Cathedral School I was taught at an early age to listen to and analyse sound. I really mind about words and music, language and dialect. The English language is our nation's greatest asset - but we don't treasure it enough and we murder it daily. I've grown up with a pretty neutral standard English accent. I'm glad I listened carefully to the late Ralph Whitlock and read his books. He knew so much about Wiltshire vocabulary and dialect as well as history. I hope someone is out there recording senior Wiltshire voices before Estuary English and American drive out our real language. If I had a genuine Wiltshire accent I'd be proud to use it in the House to be heard alongside other speakers of dialects which range from the seductive to the ugly. Wiltshire is at the seductive end of the scale.

The instant and universal availability of amplified music is a mixed blessing. It has tended to turn culture into wallpaper - with graffiti. Sue and I went to a wonderful concert with fireworks at Wilton House last July. I was amazed at the number of people who behaved as if they were sitting at home in front of their television sets, as if the musicians weren't real people who might be sensitive to chattering, pottering audiences. But there were thousands of people and - yes- it was amplified.

There's a wealth of music in the county - to suit all tastes. And one man's music is another man's noise pollution. But if we can choose real ale let us have real music, too. Many towns in France are wired up to play compulsory amplified music to passing citizens. Did you know that wired into the fake 'granite' setts in our 'refurbished' Salisbury High Street are pillars which rise out of the ground so that street artists can plug in their amplifiers? We are told by our masters this is all part of the "café society" which is what Salisbury needs. Virtual Salisbury is upon us. But what is being thrown out along with the car?

Most long-established residents don't want to put the clock back. But we do want to record the days when real Wiltshire streets were about real people. As a child I saw the bustling High Street fall still and silent with respect, awe and fear as the Assize Judge strode with the Police Chief from the Close to the Guildhall. The upholder of the rule of law in step with the man with the power of life and death.

People in the streets meant soldiers in uniform, too, streaming in and out of the old NAAFI (now Woolworths) or the 'new' NAAFI (now the County Court - which incongruously still boasts the finest sprung dance floor in the county!).

New Canal was bustling with animals on their way to or from the auction yard. The Market Place sold the full range of farm animals. The stench and muck were memorable. In contrast, Gibbs Mew were brewing, Robert Stokes was roasting coffee and the Snells were working on their chocolate creations. Pritchets were busy in Butcher Row (then a two-way street), Greens were dealing in fish and game in Fisherton Street, Butts in fruit and veg in New Street. Tap-water tasted like water. Milk tasted like milk.

Back at home in the Close the loudest sound was the cathedral clock - followed by the drone of 'Ginger' Rogers' giant lawnmower generating mountains of pungent clippings. Lazy summer days were spent afloat in our little dinghy, exploring the creeks and leets, listening to the rushing and splashing of water through the hatches and the 'tic-tac' of the water-bailiffs' weed-cutting pontoon.

By the age of ten I was completely hooked on local archaeology. My birthday treat was a picnic lunch on a barrow beside the Roman road at Handley Cross. The skylarks may have been the only sound - but of course the legionnaires were there, too. Why not? I'd heard and seen stranger things in Salisbury Close.

Those vivid memories are in the past. But in Wiltshire past and present are inseparable. Next time you wander down a familiar shopping street raise your eyes above the screaming shop-fronts and contemplate the timber, stone, brick and tiles of the roofs and chimneys that tell their own tales of Wiltshire life.

My Wiltshire is a county of searing white summer light on the Plain, of orange and violet sunsets over Stonehenge, of silky moonlight on the soft Chilmark stone of the Cathedral and the pitch-black of winter nights in the country. We should not put those qualities at risk by over-zealous, careless light pollution. How I'd love to wave a millennium wand, bury all the cables and aerials and replace all our orange street lights with the latest elegant technology, in sympathy with our heritage.

Wiltshire should also be touched. Touch is such a wonderful sense. Recently I was walking along Exeter Street from the Guildhall to my home over the Ayleswade Bridge, beside the ancient Close wall. I stopped to touch one of the carved stones brought down from the ruins of the first cathedral at Old Sarum to start a new life in the 13th century. It was therapeutic. The texture and smell of the grainy limestone and the contours created by the mason communicated down the centuries.

So, touch the stones, touch the chalk, feel the soil, run your hands through the clear spring water. Connect with Wiltshire which has so much to celebrate, such a future ahead. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rob with the MD of the small, 'real' Tisbury Brewery - October 2000

 

 

 

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